Eye catching designs- Printing techniques

Beautiful usage of thread- EMBROIDERY

A play with colors- PAINTING

Ethnic and indo-westernized embellishments- ZARDOSI, SEQUINS, COIN WORK,  …

PRINTING- This is an easy means of surface ornamentation. A varied effect can be obtained by using wonderful colors. The very ethnic batik, kalamkari, is very well known… but what about transfer printing, sugar print, puff print and glitter print???

EMBROIDERY- Be it hand or machine embroidery India is famous for her varied stitches all over the globe. This paper covers all about the embroidery styles of India to the latest ones.

PAINTING- All of us love painting our garment by using fabric paints… but how about silk painting- the latest trend of painting.

EMBELLISHMENTS- Out for a party or a wedding your garment would be incomplete without embellishments. The traditional zardosi, mirrior work, sequins of various shapes and sizes are just a few of them. The now trendy coin work and shell work with all this your garment will look out of the world.

•         Demand for surface ornamented garments with embroideries, sequins and crystals is quite strong in the international market, as also in India

•         The size of the Indian market is slated to be around Rs. 800-900 crore per annum.

The Indian products have definitely created a niche market in every nook & corner of the world.

Our paper hence covers the above mentioned methods and techniques for ornamenting the fashion garments. Through this paper you can come to know about the latest ornamenting techniques which will be of great use in future for budding fashion designers like us.

In simple terms one can define value addition as a means of enhancing the appearance and value of the garment. As we all know that fashion is a cycle and trends keep changing, at present people go in for highly ornamented garments not only for weddings, they get into for formals, party wears and so on… Ornamentation not just adds value for the garment but also increases its price to a higher extent.

India has long been known for fabric decoration using traditional weaving, dyeing and embroidery. Indian embroidery has become synonymous with the traditional fabric ornamentation.  Its origin dates to the ancient times. Embroidery has adorned almost everything in fabric, from handkerchief to quilts and wearable to home décor products.
In traditional Indian embroidery the threads are dyed in natural colors and the use of too many colors in the same cloth is avoided.

Using these vibrant colors embroidery is done using a variety of stitches unique to that form of embroidery. Be it the simple running stitch of kantha or the satin and chain of Kashmiri Kashidakari they all depict the passion and life of the people of the state. The Chikankari of Lucknow resembles the fine marble carvings of Moughal era and phulkari is aptly named for its florals. The Intricate patterns and stitches of Katiawari and Sindhi embroidery entrap the beauty of the desert landscape.

The traditional Punjabi embroidery art is phulkari. The pulkari word means growing flowers. This embroidery form, true to its name includes only floral motifs in bright colors. There is sanctity to the art form as the canopy over Guru Granth Sahib, the
religious book of the Sikhs is of phulkari.

The phulkari with very intricate floral patterns is called Bagh that means garden. It is primarily used on the odhanies and dupattas. It is considered auspecious for the bride and for the new born. It is worn on ceremonies. Phulkari for some time now is being used in home furnishings specially wall hangings, sofa throws and other soft furnishings.

           Phulkari is traditionally done on a handspun khadi cloth with simple darning stitches using the un spun silk floss yarn called 'pat'. Single strand threads are used for the purpose. The simple stitches in the adept hands make it one of the most sought after embroidery craft. Shading and variation is often obtained by the using horizontal, vertical
or diagonal stitches.

Besides this, designs inspired by various day to day items, fauna and flora like sunflowers, peacock, red chilies, ace of diamonds and so on.

Kashmiri embroidery or kashida is colorful and beautiful as Kashmir itself. Embroiders often draw inspiration from the beautiful nature around. The colors the motifsof flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango etc. are the most common ones. The whole pattern is created using one or two embroidery stitch styles.
Process

The base cloth whether wool or cotton, is generally white or crème or other similar shades. Pastel colors are also often used. The craftsmen use the color shades often blending with the background. Thread colors are florals seen around. Very few stitches are used on one fabric, one or two. Attimes the whole fabric is done in a single stitch
type. These stitches are often called kashmiri stitch.

Kashmiri embroidery is known for the skilled execution of a single stitch. Chain stitch, satin stitch, the slanted darn stitch, stem, herringbone and sometimes the doori or knot stitches are used but not more than one or two at a time.

A form of embroidery in Karnataka, it is called Kasuti there and means same as kashidakari or embroidery. It has also been desiphered as art of cotton thread and hands. The art was practiced by ladies of Maharashtra and Karnataka specially in Dharwad and Bijapur. The embroidery gives an exquisite effect to the soft furnishings.

Process
          The geometric designs of Kasooti are derived from the temple sculptures. They depict bells, chariots birds and animals. There is a strong resemblance between kasooti and Rangoli motifs, only that rangoli is done on floor at the doorsteps of houses and temples and Kasooti on fabric with needle and thread. The similarity of the motifs can be because both the things are done by the lady of the house, one as a religious ritual and another to occupy her after the household chores. The pattern is never drawn on the cloth. The design remains in the mind and is recreated on the cloth directly with the needle and thread. The colors traditionally used in Kasooti are brighter shades of red, orange yellow and purple. The stitches involved are running stitch (Neyge) and cross stitch (Menthya), Murgi and Gavanthi. There are about 700 designs under categories like Gopi Kamala Chittu Kamala, Gundala Gopura, Dagabaji Gopura, Gandolagida, Tulasi, Peacock, Elephant, Lions, Vankipatti, Kayapatti etc. The pattern is created in such a way that both the sides of the cloth have similar in appearance. Earlier only cotton threads were used on the cotton cloth now the silk fabric is also used.

Chikankari was nurtured in Uttar Pradesh and primarily in Lucknow. The work is done on very fine muslin and now on georgette and chiffon and other fine fabrics. It is more suited for the outerwear but these days there are certain exclusive creations using Chikan work in Cushion covers, pillow covers and table linen. Partition curtains with the chikan embroidery are fast gaining ground.

Process
           Whatever be the origin, the intricacy and the patterns remind you of the fine marble carvings and jalis. Today the apart from the white muslin, light tinted fabrics are used. The thread is prefered white. The most commendable part of chikankari is the open work ground, an effect of drawn thread work is achieved without drawing out any.

            The most common motif used is that of a creepers. Floral motifs may enrich the entire garment or just one corner. Among the floral motifs embroidered, the jasmine, rose, flowering stems, lotus and the paisley motif are the most popular.

            There is simply no match for the shadow work involved in the chikan. In this the herringbone stitch or Bakhiya as called locally is worked on the wrong side of the cloth. Looking on the right side the effect is that of the shadows between the double running stitch. Another variation of shadow work is created by cutting the patterns in the same fabric as the base material and stitching it on the wrong side.

There are other stitches to give different stitches. The tiny raised flowers are made with stitches resembling French knots. The raised effect is evened off using the simple stem stitch called Rahet. Various effects can be created using a variety of stitches and combination. Mainly buttonhole stitch (Hool), running stitch, and chain stitch (Zanzeer) are used to give the fillers and yet not give it a cluttered appearance. The jali or the lattice created by the thread tension on the cloth is most remarkable.

The beautiful quilting stitch. Actually the stitch is simple running stitch. It is the way it has been used that makes it extra ordinary. The cloth was given layers that were kept together by the stitches. The cloth had multiple uses. It could be used to sleep on or as a light blanket. Kantha for the Bengali folk means embroidered quilt. Kantha is said to be dorukha meaning turning the worn out and old textiles and fabrics to things of beauty.
Process

         The process involves laying the worn clothes in layers and stitching them together. Though the stitch used is variations of running stitch, the motifs can range from being simple to very intricate. It is a typical example of how a simple stitch can create elaborate motifs. Usually the motifs are gods and goddesses, flowers, animals or geometric patterns that means it can be anything the worker can relate to.
The various patterns are called jaal, jhod, jhinga phool, dhan chori, golak dhaga and many others all created by different placements of the running stitch.

 

 

Brazilian embroidery is not actually from Brazil. The History of Brazilian Embroidery reveals that it was popularised under the name of Brazilian Embroidery. this form of embroidery is enjoying increased popularity. Today it is possibly more correct to call this form of embroidery dimensional embroidery as although rayon is heavily used contemporary embroiderers often work this style in other threads such as silk particularly when it is combined with silk ribbon embroidery.

As a technique dimensional or Brazilian embroidery attracts the eye firstly because it is dimensional and if rayon or silk is used the high sheen of the thread catches the light giving a project or section of a block extra zing. This style of needlework is often seen in contemporary crazy quilting in combination with silk ribbon embroidery.

Rayon is wonderful because it looks like silk, has a high sheen and lustrous finish. The reason rayon thread is so tricky is that it has a z-twist. Unlike other needlework techniques Brazilian embroidery doesn’t limit itself to specific stitches on a specific foundation cloth. Stitches from all types of needlework are used, common stitches being, stem stitch, cast on stitch, double cast-onstitch, drizzle stitch, oyster stitch, French knots, and Bullion stitch. Also used in this style of needlework are feather stitch, Detached button hole, and coral stitch.

Printing, name used for several processes by which words, pictures, or designs are reproduced on paper, fabrics, metal, or other suitable materials. It is one of the latest ways to ornament a fashion garment. some of the famous printings used at present are:

Transfer printing (also known as heat transfer printing or thermal transfer printing) involves applying a dry transfer onto the surface of the garment using heat and pressure.  This is unlike screen printing where wet inks are used.  Chung Shun Printing Factory offers at least four different types of heat transfer printing options:

Pad Transfer Printing - This transfer printing technique utilizes a mold to transfer the image onto the fabric.  The image can have 3-dimensional edge effects that are either square or rounded.  Thick or thin layer results can also be accomplished as the final product may have a soft or hard feel.

Flock Transfer Printing - Flock transfer printing is similar to flock printing except the fibers are attached to a flock transfer paper first before being transferred onto the fabric.  Generally advised for printing bold designs or large lettering.

Offset Sublimation Transfer Printing - With vivid images and bright colors like a beautiful picture, this printing technique yields beautiful fabric images.

Rhinestone Iron-On Transfer - This relatively popular printing craft technique allows one to ornament the fabric with rhinestones that look like artificial diamonds.  The fabric can be washed in water as the ornaments are durable and don't fall off the cloth.

Glitter printing (also known as metallic printrng) allows one to print designs with different glittering effects.  To create these effects, Chung Shun Printing Factory uses powders and flakes that have gold, silver, visionary, or rainbow colors.  Usually, the final result is especially colourful, brilliant and dazzling.

 High-density printing (also known as puff printing) involves stacking layer upon layer of plastisol or ink to create a 3-D look.  The process results in prints that are thick with clean edges, and often have textured colors on top of other colors.  They can simulate leather or rubber patches, and, if so desired, can display "hidden" messages when viewed from different angles.  We can create many different kinds of puff effects, such as velvet, suede, or transparent effects.

High density printing works with any color garment, and can be printed on jersey knits, pique, denim, twill, and sweatshirt fleece without a problem. While a normal print on a pique shirt takes on the texture of the pique, a high-density ink will not.

Using plastisol or high-density inks, Chung Shun Printing Factory can build these prints with square or rounded edges. The final product has a soft touch as the surface can either be glossy or dull.

Some people may not be as familiar with plotter printing yet as they arewith screen printing. This method of printing is done by cutting the design out of asheet of solid coloured ink and sealing it into the garment using a high temperature and very high pressure. The benefits of plotter printing are that the print edges are much cleaner than traditional screen printing, it's handle or touch is less tacky and it's biggest benefit is that no printing screen is required which means that we can economically print very small quantities. Recent technological improvements allow certain types of plotter printing to be ironed over, tumble dried, dry cleaned and industrial washed in temperatures up to 90 degrees. All of these have to be avoided at all costs with screen printing !

Painting, the art of applying color, or other organic or synthetic substances, to various surfaces to create a representational,  imaginative, or abstract picture or design.

 

 

 

 

 ETHNIC AND INDO-WESTERNIZED EMBELLISHMENTS

Zardozi the imperial metal embroidery, adorned the costumes of the royalty, wall hanging, scabbards, walls of the regal tents and the rich trappings of elephants and horses. Intricate patterns in gold and silver, studded with pearls and precious stones enhanced the beauty of rich and glowing silk,

velvet and brocade.

Process
          Zari embroidery is done with a crochet hook using the metallic thread and appears like chain stitch. Zardozi is an extension of the same. Zari elements like coiled wire, dabka, tilla, beads etc are used to create the motifs. Zardozi can alternatively be called metallic appliqué embroidery.

The most prevalent zardozi elements segments of dabkaa, a tightly wound spiral metal, Kora, a heavier and darker dabkaa a square sided dabkaa that is wiry and erratic in appearance, sitaaras, round sequins, glass and plastic beads and kasab, silver or gold- plated silver thread.

The process involves tracing out the design on the cloth preferably rich fabrics like silk, satin velvet etc. The fabric is stretched over the wooden frame and the embroidery work begins. Each zardozi element is picked up by the needle and incorporated appropriately into the pattern by pushing the needle in the fabric.

The process of creating zari threads and zardozi elements was rather complicated earlier. It needed a lot of patience and precision. Today the modern means may have made the task a little easier but still the adeptness and delicate handling remains the same.
         Zardozi and zari garments have become very popular and make elegant evening and ceremonial ware. The art is now being used for soft furnishing products also.

One of the most attractive things in Indian specifically Gujarati embroidery is incorporating the shisha or the mirror. The art is supposed to have its origin in Persia somewhere aroind 13th century. The mirror work is used along with the other stitches to enhance the general effect of the pattern.

        It is used by the Jats of Banni. They cut the glass into different shapes and embroider it in the fabric. Incredibly miniscule mirror embroidery was done on heavily encrusted yoke with white thread, mingled with red, orange, blue and green, by the Garari Jat community. In Kathi embroidery the mirrors are used for eyes of birds and center of flowers.

         Often combination of cross stitch, satin stitch and buttonhole stitch, along with mirrors Though very common in gujarat , mirror work is done in other regions as well. It is don in Rajasthan with the same fervor. It is used to accentuate the appearance of Orissa applique. It is said that earlier mica was used instead of mirror. Later ornamental mirror shapes were cut out of an urn, blown out by a mouth pipe. Now mirror sheets are produced.

 

 

 

 

 

Ari Embroidery is equally old and famous for its heavy work. Prepared with the help of an awl it represents a cobbler’s stitch, which requires considerable skill and practice.

The sharper and finer the hook of the awl, the more refined the quality of the embroidery. The garments under the spell of Ari embroidery are usually dotted with bootis (motifs), which round off with big sized ones known as Nadir Shahi booti.

Ari embroidery is done primarily by the Muslim cobbler community in India. The designs are of Mughal origin since the art was at one time patronized by them.
 The richness of gold may no longer grace the work of zardosi craftsman, but the glitter and glamour endures, hopefully, for all years to come. Zardosi is as tenacious as the wires the craftsmen work with. 

This is an exclusive cotton silk kurti studded artistically with shells, beads and crystals. 

 It is an exclusive design suitable for all occassions. 

 Available in different colours

Coin Work

Cream italian crepe saree blouse worked in resham zardosi and decorative crystal embellishment enhanced with tikies and diamonte.

 

 

 

 

 

Italian crepe saree in nude beige worked in nine yard cut work pattern with austrian crystals and coloured diamonte worn with heavily worked corset blouse

 

Fusia georgette lehenga embellished with zardozi gold sequin-kundan embroidery in panels teamed with short sweet heart neck choli and shaded tung-gold dupatta with four side heavy zardosi border.

Silk Ribbon Embroidery or its abbreviation SRE is a form of dimensional work that has delighted stitchers for a long time. The revival of embroidery in the Victorian style is in part the reason that silk ribbon embroidery has a new generation of stitchers working in this style. However it is a remarkably easy form of stitching. Floral designs of roses, daisies, and ferns lift off the back ground fabrics to produce interesting effects. Two big pluses to aid its popularity today. The big trick with silk ribbon embroidery is keep the ribbon loose. Don’t apply too much tension. Let the stitches to be full and flop about a bit as then they will represent flowers well.

•         Embroidery, till a decade ago, was largely in the unorganized sector. Totally 60% of market is governed by organized sector

•         Surat and Mumbai are the major embroidery centres in the country, and Bareilly, Muradabad, etc are known for beadwork.

•         As export market is getting more organised, more enterprises started export of embroidered articles

•         Leading company Aayyee in Mumbai has the market as in the range of Rs 400-1500 a metre for hand embroideries, and Rs 50-100 a metre for machine embroideries. Our exports are growing at a rate of 15-20 per cent per annum."

•         Garments with sequins and crochet laces (of Indian looks) are well received by foreign customers and now such works are being done in sleepwear too.

•         Based on trend the designs must developed and different threads can be used to have more attractive market.

•         Sequins and bead work garments now a days has good demand.